Where the vineyards are (Yakima Valley, Washington)

The Tri-Cities area is one of the least interesting places I have been to on my trip so far. It is a very functional area, as the gateway to the South East, and there are many new communities that have blossomed in housing estates. But it is generally a city without much heart and soul. I was fairly glad to be heading off along the Yakima River towards Seattle, as it would take me through areas where a third of the fruit is grown in Washington. After trying many wines from the Yakima AVA I was keen to see how the environment influenced the wines.

The most South Eastern sub-region of the Yakima Valley is Red Mountain, where many of the best reds come from. Whilst it is at least a quarter of the size of the Walla Walla Valley, it amazingly grows more fruit. It is very dry, and probably gets very hot in summer. In a way it reminded me of the Barossa Valley, so naturally Rhone varieties like Shiraz do very well here. This is certainly not white wine country, otherwise it would be called Red & White Mountain.

Seeing the vine leaves change colour in Red Mountain AVA

Red Mountain AVA

There are very few wineries in the Yakima Valley though, a lot of the fruit either travelling to Walla Walla or closer to Seattle. Most of the best wineries are in these places, relying on wine tourism and their location to sell their wines. The Yakima Valley is about 60 miles in length and most of the towns are very small with little accommodation. I only visited two wineries in the Yakima Valley, and they were both very good for the prices they were charging, but not exceptional quality. Fidelitas was established by a former Chateau Ste. Michelle, like most people in the Washington wine industry. They make a range of single varietal wines which are very solid but not outstanding. Hyatt Vineyards is one of the oldest wineries in the region. They make a range of very good wines that sell for $10-$15 are are the best value I have tasted.

Fidelitas Semillon

Hyatt Estates

Driving from the Yakima Valley to Seattle is one of the most dramatic and beautiful I have experienced. As you drive through the semi-arid part of Washington State the landscape opens up and stretches for miles towards the Cascade Mountains. As you climb the scenery changes back to being fertile and forested again, and snow-covered mountains appear. This is the major skiing area in Washington, and the snow season isn't far away. The pass through the mountains closes annually for four months, which effectively shuts down the wine tourism East of the mountains. It pays to be closer to Seattle during this time of the year.

https://picasaweb.google.com/103966152761599927074/YakimaValleyWashington?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Dramatic landscapes (Columbia Gorge, Oregon/Washington)

I'm starting to get used to the disappointment that I can't spend more time in all the places I am going, and Portland was one of the hardest to leave so far. It's much nicer staying in the hostels because you are around people more and there's stuff to do in the evening. It's nice having some space and quiet in the motels, but it's pretty boring and lonely. It does give me a chance to catch up on things and look ahead for arrangements, but I do waste a bit too much time flipping through the thousands of channels on the television.

Colubia Valley, Oregon to the left, Washington to the right

The Columbia River is one of the biggest I have ever seen, and stretches at least 80 metres wide most of the time. As you drive east out of Portland you are treated to very lush vegetation and trees, which are particularly beautiful at this time of year as the leaves change colour. The Columbia River becomes the Columbia Gorge as hills shelter the river on both sides. To the South is the state of Oregon, and to the North is Washington which is my next destination. Like a number of regions in the Pacific Northwest, Columbia Gorge sits across the two states. The only winery that was open was Cathedral Ridge, and the wines were pretty ordinary so not worth talking about. The only interesting wine was a secret blend of riesling and an undisclosed red wine.

Cathedral Ridge Halbtrocken

An interesting thing happens as you drive East along the Columbia River. Once you hit the town of Lyle on the Washington side of the river, the scenery changes from lush verdant forests and green grass, to very dry and sparse semi-arid tundra. The difference is both stark and sudden. As you drive on the ridges of the Columbia Gorge you see extensive wind farms as far as the eye can see. Victoria could learn a lot from this area, as they are certainly not an eyesore, looking like toothpicks sticking out of a leg of lamb from afar at sunset.

Windfarms in Washington

One of the largest wineries in Washington, and the 100th to get their license, was Maryhill Winery. Maryhill can be found on a very scenic ridge that has amazing views both up and down the river. The most exciting thing about this winery is that they truly understand the value of wine tourism. Columbia Valley is at least two hours from the closest major city, and isn't between any major cities either. There are very few wineries in this area, and the ones that are aren't amazing. There are very small communities that are spread out and there aren't a lot of things to do. So they have created a reason for people to come out; concerts. An amphitheatre was built from day one 10 years ago, and they have just opened a brand new multi-purpose stage. They have hosted the likes of Lyle Lovett, Styx and Counting Crows, and most weekends have music playing in the courtyard. The wines are very good but not amazing, and many have some R/S, but that is what their customers want.

The Maryhill amphitheatre and stage

https://picasaweb.google.com/103966152761599927074/ColumbiaGorgeOregonColumbiaValleyWashington?authuser=0&feat=directlink